There shouldn’t be an ISC, it should be an IAC on a , and there shouldn’t be ” a wire,” there should be a two-wire hardshell connector that just plugs into the IAC valve. Did you have a connector come apart or something? The circuit is simple. It has a… two wire connector that plugs into the IAC, and the two circuits run all the way back to the big 60 pin connector at the PCM. MORE How do you hook-up or wire up one light with two on-off switches? For information on how to hook-up one light with two on-off switches, see the Related link “How to wire 3-way and 4-way switches, including wiring diagrams”, shown below.
There are Ford-style fender mounted solenoids that have a terminal on the back and unless it is grounded, the coil won’t energize. I believe they might even have been used in some of the later cars than that. The solenoid connections for a fender mounted solenoid will be battery to a large post – If the solenoid is mounted on the RIGHT inner fender, the battery side will typically be the post on the left if you are looking at it from the front or from the engine compartment.
The other large post goes to the starter. There will be two smaller terminals – one will be I and the other S.
Feb 06, · The “square” goes to your starter solenoid (small stud on the starter) with no 12 or 10 wire The two outer terminals go to the backup lamp circuit, and the CENTER terminal goes up to the starter relay If you are using a factory harness, it should all hook up. If you have some sort of aftermarket, you may have to add some wire. Feb 2.
It is a critical component for both gas and electric cars and it is prone to failure because it works so hard, especially in battery powered golf cars. Unlike the starter solenoid in your automobile, which works only as you start the engine, a golf car solenoid must work the entire time the pedal is down. Each time you stop and then restart your golf car the solenoid must also stop working and then start working again.
Throughout a busy golf day, the stops and starts can number per day. These nifty little switches will work for years conducting up to plus amps per use in electric golf cars. Oddly enough, to reliably conduct all this current and continue to function thousands and thousands of times, most solenoids have a relatively simple design. A steel plunger with a thick plate on one end is surrounded by a coil of thin wire wrapped many times, kind of like a fat spool of thread.
When a small amount of battery juice is put across the thin wire, the magnetic field created by the coil throws the steel plunger and plate into two large bolts that stick out of the side of the solenoid case. The two large bolts, or steel studs, and the plate conduct the high current needed to power the starter or golf car motor. The great advantage to this high amp switch is the plate throws very quickly against the large studs, thereby minimizing the electrical arcing created when connecting high amperage.
Picture when you pull a plug out of the wall when the appliance is still on. You see a spark at the wall receptacle. Inside a golf car solenoid this arcing occurs every time the car is stopped and started.
Before you jump into the tests, I recommend you read the entire article first. Also, you’ll notice that the photos I’m using are of a starter off of the vehicle The two tests in this article are On Car tests Important Safety Precautions Suggestion 1:
May 16, · If you hook up the Ford solenoid as if it had a regular Ford starter and then hook the cable from the Ford solenoid to the large post on the “GM” solenoid with the jumper it will activate the “GM” solenoid.
Contact Author In this article I am going to explain how to check a solenoid for problems. On a typical solenoid there are four posts called terminals. There are usually two large terminals and two small ones. Battery voltage is applied to the two small terminals to activate the solenoid, which then connects the two large terminals together. From time to time the two large terminals malfunction and the solenoid needs to be replaced.
To check the solenoid is fairly simple, though. You will need a couple of tools:
How much is your farm tractor worth? Find resale prices for tractors built from through today, with complete specifications and serial numbers. Search This Message Board: Ron I know, elementary mistake, but i pulled the started to have it re-built and now that i have it back i cannot remember which wire goes where! The is a jumper wire from one solenoid post to the starter. Does the battery wire go to the post that does NOT have the jumper wire?
The starter solenoid hooks up as follows. There are 2 large post, the battery cable attatches to the one near the battery. The cable that goes to the starter attatches to the other post.
Disclaimer Solve hot-start problems by installing a remote starter solenoid Headers are a great addition to any V8 Chevrolet but they also generate large amounts of heat in the engine compartment. One component that is specifically affected by this heat is the stock GM starter solenoid. Because of its location on the starter, it is very close to the headers.
The heat can cause problems starting your car. Most of the time all you need to do is wait and let the solenoid cool down and the problem goes away. However, this can be annoying and embarrassing and in the long run will kill the solenoid altogether. While starter heat shields help the problem, they don’t solve it. The best solution to the problem is to relocate the starter solenoid to some other location under the hood, away from the heat of your exhaust system.
You obviously can’t move the stock solenoid from a GM starter but you can use a separate, remote solenoid like on a Ford, to control the GM solenoid. Here’s how and why it works: On the GM solenoid, the winding is fed through a resistive lead to the starter from the switch key, which results in less than the 12 volts being applied across the solenoid winding. As the current in the lead increase so does the voltage drop on the lead going to the GM solenoid winding, resulting in less voltage at the solenoid winding, giving less than satisfactory operation.
So, the bottom line is, when the unit gets hot, it draws more current in the lead from the switch to the solenoid winding resulting in less voltage across the solenoid activation coil.
User might wish to get two new battery cables instead of cutting their existing battery cable. One cable will be needed from the battery with correct post connection to one side of the solenoid and a second cable from the solenoid to the GM solenoid on the starter. Note this kit and one from M. Electrical comes with a metal connector for the GM solenoid to connect the battery post to the inside “S” connection instead of using a jumper wire.
Sep 15, · As for the hot wire, just hook it to the hot side of the solenoid on your starter. Give it a try, and if you don’t like it you can swap out the regulator for the three wire set up as was suggested. Bob.
June 17, , When I took the engine out of my truck I was in a real hurry and did not pay attention to the wires I took off of the starter. I thought surely a book would tell me exactly how to re-wire it. Every schematic and post I have found here has not helped. So- the 10 gauge red with large hole connector obviously goes to the large post in the middle. I have two other wires. One is 16 gauge and using a continuity tester I found it goes to the instrument cluster lighting.
This wire is so dirty and old I can’t tell the color. May be purple or brown. The other wire is 12 or 14 gauge and brown. I have HEI ignition and a guy told me to forget about the brown or purple and connect the 12 or 14 ga to the block side small post. I really think the 3rd wire 16 ga was connected to one of the small posts but not sure which one.
If you have a definitive schematic, send it.
There is one area that concerns me – I’m, according to the SVT mini starter instruction sheet, required to use a “firewall solenoid” – or am I in a terminology glitch, with all of the Fords having a firewall solenoid. Since I’ve never had the “pleasure” of this newer design am a little bit hesitant to just bolt it in place and have at it. I’ve attached the Ford wire up page with my soleniod drawn in for some discussion and maybe a sketch Doc – where are you when I need you??
How to Hook Up an ’86 Chevy Starter. Category:Hobbies Release time Views After installing a new starter into your Chevy, you must hook it up to the electrical system.
Alliance Vendors tfeverfred said: This takes care of protecting the whole system. Didn’t you mean 50 amp??? As I’m going to be wiring my Dubble A in the semi-near future, would it be a good suggestion to – instead of wiring in a fusible link, which is a pain in the ass to change – rather install a circuit breaker type fuse right terminology? If there is a problem, it’ll trip, and stay tripped if the problem continues. However, it won’t be as much of a bitch as the fusible link is to change should it blow.
I just know how much of a bitch it is to change those damned fusible links. Who was he anyway?
First of all, an engine’s ignition system is completely separate from its electrical system. One has absolutely nothing to do with the other, except in battery-powered ignition systems, the electrical system supplies power to the ignition system. When connecting the wires for an electrical system, don’t just make a connection by twisting bare wires together by hand and taping them up.
All this does is allow moisture between the wires and in time, lets corrosion set in, causing a faulty connection.
To wire a volt starter solenoid, first disconnect the black negative cable from the vehicle’s battery, and then connect the red battery cable to the large bolt on the solenoid. If it is a remote-mounted solenoid, you must connect a control wire between the control circuit terminal on the solenoid and the car’s ignition bypass terminal.
Bench tested starter motor at local auto parts shop and they said it’s fine. Battery was shot so I bought new one. Re-installed the starter motor. When hooking up the new battery, I hooked up the positive side. When I touched the negative cable to the negative terminal, there were sparks, and the starter motor engaged and tried to start the engine.
The keys were not in the ignition and the ignition was in the locked position. Verified ignition in the locked position and left keys out of ignition.